{"id":43817,"date":"2022-05-17T12:41:39","date_gmt":"2022-05-17T16:41:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/?p=43817"},"modified":"2024-09-18T10:42:14","modified_gmt":"2024-09-18T14:42:14","slug":"the-dordogne-cheese-wine-and-art-de-vivre","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/travel\/the-dordogne-cheese-wine-and-art-de-vivre\/","title":{"rendered":"The Dordogne: Cheese, Wine, and Art de Vivre"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

This idyllic region of France is sure to keep you coming back for more<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Photographed by Hans Westbeek<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nestled in the heart of southwestern France, the Dordogne offers a feast for all senses. Highly regarded for its myriad historic monuments and pretty medieval villages, the region is characterized by a bucolic landscape of gentle river valleys, dense forests, and rolling hillsides blanketed in sunflowers and vines. Art de vivre, or the art of living, isn\u2019t just another alluring French expression here; it is deeply intertwined with a rich gastronomic and viticultural heritage. Appreciating what\u2019s on your plate or in your glass is elevated to an art form. And it all starts in the hands of dedicated producers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Dordogne, also known as P\u00e9rigord, is home to the vineyards of Bergerac and Duras, located on both banks of the Dordogne River and stretching over 29,000 acres. Composed of seven unique appellations\u2014Bergerac, Monbazillac, Saussignac, Rosette, P\u00e9charmant, Montravel, and Duras\u2014its wine spectrum includes everything from elegant reds to sweet aromatic whites that are redolent of honey and candied fruits. In terms of history, soil, climate, and grape varieties, the Dordogne\u2019s wines are similar to those of the prestigious Bordeaux region to the west, yet each appellation is distinct, and each estate has its own unique character. There are choices aplenty to complement a culinary cornucopia that includes black truffles, duck and goose specialties, walnuts, succulent lamb, and strawberries\u2014not to mention excellent cheeses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sister at Abbey of Notre Dame de Bonne-Esp\u00e9rance (left) and the peaceful abbey grounds<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

TRAPPE D\u2019ECHOURGNAC<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u201cWe wanted to be in natural surroundings and our work to be linked to our faith,\u201d says Antoine Dumont. In September 2020 he and his wife Quitterie took over the management of the cheese factory at Abbey Notre-Dame de Bonne-Esp\u00e9rance in \u00c9chourgnac, a tiny village in the center of the Double Forest. The young couple had just returned from an eventful 18-month camping trip through Africa with their children and were looking to add more meaning to their lives. They left their busy careers\u2014he worked in business development, she was a nurse\u2014and found their calling at the abbey, working with 22 sisters between the ages of 28 and 97 who refine the Dordogne\u2019s oldest cheese, Trappe d\u2019Echourgnac<\/a>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The semi-hard cheese is made with pasteurized cow\u2019s milk and has a pressed, uncooked paste. Its recipe was brought over by Cistercian monks who settled in the area in 1868. Originally from the Mayenne department in northwestern France, they went to \u00c9chourgnac to reclaim the marshy land, develop the area, and help put an end to a raging malaria plague. By 1878 the monks had built an abbey complete with a modern cheese factory. Production stopped in 1910 after the community dispersed, but when a group of nuns took over in 1923, they unearthed the old recipe and carried forth the cheesemaking tradition.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Cheese is no longer made on site, but the nuns have taken on the task of affineurs. Every Wednesday morning the young cheeses arrive from Brittany in small 10.5-ounce wheels and large wheels weighing almost four pounds. The small wheels are aged for two weeks while the larger wheels are aged twice as long.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The abbey\u2019s flagship product is a cheese washed in walnut wine. It was first made in 1998 by the clever Sister Jeanne d\u2019Arc and is now one of the Dordogne\u2019s most sought-after cheeses. Trappe au vin de noix has a slightly moist, dark-brown rind and a smooth, creamy yellow paste. With comforting, smoky aromas that are reminiscent of bacon\u2014and perhaps a crackling fire\u2014it pairs well with an oak-aged white wine from the Montravel appellation, which is situated in the far west of the region and known for producing the finest whites.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Since 2011, a Pyrenees sheep\u2019s milk cheese is also refined in the abbey\u2019s cellars. Aged for three months, Le Brebis is firm and cream-colored with a pale-yellow rind, mild saline notes, and hints of hazelnuts. A white C\u00f4tes de Duras with crisp minerality and a lively acidity would work well with this toothsome cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Goat and Cab\u00e9cous at Ch\u00e8vrerie du Lac de Roudet<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

CAB\u00c9COU DU P\u00c9RIGORD<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The Dordogne is especially known for its young, raw goat\u2019s milk cheeses; It counts roughly 150 breeders and more than 20,000 goats that produce 14 million liters of milk annually. Though the first records of goat farming date back to the late sixteenth century, Cab\u00e9cou<\/a>, the region\u2019s most emblematic cheese, was trademarked in 1992. Authentic Cab\u00e9cou\u2014which means \u201clittle goat\u201d\u2014must be made with milk produced in the Dordogne. The puck-shaped cheese weighs between 1 and 1.5 ounces, making it perfect for single servings, such as on a warm goat cheese salad.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are some 40 farmstead Cab\u00e9cou producers in the region\u2014one of them is 26-year-old Robin Lachaize from Ch\u00e9vrerie du Lac de Roudet in Sarlat-la-Can\u00e9da. When he was just 20 years old, Lachaize decided to follow his heart and become a cheesemaker. \u201cI have the same character as a goat,\u201d he jokes. \u201cI\u2019m very curious and always in for some fun.\u201d With the help of his father and uncle, Lachaize built all the facilities necessary to house his herd of 50 goats and craft his exquisite cheeses. During July and August, the high season, he makes 1,000 Cab\u00e9cous a day, which accounts for 70 percent of production. Logs, pyramids, blocks (ash-rinded or plain), yogurt, and a delicate fromage frais are also sold directly at his farm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lachaize sells his Cab\u00e9cou as young as two days old. The cheese\u2019s buttery, melt-in-the-mouth texture and milky, sweet aromas are properly paired with a fruity, dry white Bergerac. A slightly older, drier Cab\u00e9cou would work well on toast, grilled and served with a drizzle of honey. In that case, opt for a silky, semi-sweet Rosette with floral nuances and a whisper of citrus.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The variety of cheeses at Fouliouze farm<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
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Gilles Gros making soft goat cheeses (left) and his tomme de ch\u00e8vre, the specialty of Fouliouze<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

TOMME DE CH\u00c8VRE<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Approximately 40 minutes northeast of the old town of Bergerac is Pezuls, a quintessential example of la France profonde, or \u201cdeep France,\u201d that is truly authentic and unscathed by the hands of time. In this sleepy village of no more than 150 souls, life is slowed down. You won\u2019t find major tourist attractions, but you will encounter space to simply be. And really good cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In 2009 Florence and Gilles Gros left the mighty mountains of the Haute-Savoie region to start a new life as organic cheesemakers. Besides keeping 50 goats and 10 sheep on their 37-acre patch of land at La Ferme de Fouliouze, they also rent three g\u00cetes (country cottages), where guests can recharge and reconnect with nature. You\u2019ll only hear songbirds and the happy, gentle bleating of the animals when you\u2019re there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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P\u00e9charmant wine<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The Gros\u2019 make a variety of soft, young cheeses with raw milk, but \u201cla vedette\u201d (the star), as Florence calls it, is Gilles\u2019 tomme de ch\u00e8vre. As a young boy, Gilles learned the ropes of the business while taking care of the animals on his parents\u2019 farm, so it seemed only natural that his family recipe would become Fouliouze\u2019s specialty. The half-cooked, pressed cheese is aged on pine boards for at least a month and is rubbed and turned regularly. The taste is complex, rich, and fruity\u2014perfect with a barrel-aged wine from P\u00e9charmant, a northeast appellation of the region known for its robust reds.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Florence sells her cheeses at local markets and directly at the farm, but the family\u2019s passion and dedication hasn\u2019t gone unnoticed by some of the best restaurants in the region. Michelin-starred Le Vieux Logis in neighboring Tr\u00e9molat has the Gros\u2019 fromage proudly on the menu.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Experiencing the Dordogne\u2019s cheeses, wines, and art de vivre will require a plane ticket, but once you discover this idyllic part of France, chances are you\u2019ll keep coming back.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the bucolic Dordogne region of southwestern France, appreciating what\u2019s on your plate or in your glass is elevated to an art form. And it all starts in the hands of dedicated producers.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":114,"featured_media":43820,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[2777,11],"tags":[2320,21492,991,960,149,1083],"coauthors":[27810],"class_list":["post-43817","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-drinks-with-cheese","category-travel","tag-cheese-pairing","tag-drinks-with-cheese","tag-france","tag-travel","tag-wine","tag-wine-and-cheese"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nThe Dordogne: Cheese, Wine, and Art de Vivre | culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"In the bucolic Dordogne region of southwestern France, appreciating what\u2019s on your plate or in your glass is elevated to an art form. 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