{"id":46509,"date":"2023-11-20T09:48:55","date_gmt":"2023-11-20T14:48:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/?p=46509"},"modified":"2023-11-20T09:48:57","modified_gmt":"2023-11-20T14:48:57","slug":"discover-shabby-shoe-blakesville-creamerys-twist-on-a-french-classic","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/centerfold\/discover-shabby-shoe-blakesville-creamerys-twist-on-a-french-classic\/","title":{"rendered":"Discover Shabby Shoe: Blakesville Creamery’s Twist on A French Classic"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Photographed by <\/strong>Adam DeTour styled by <\/strong>Kendra Smith<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For Blakesville Creamery\u2019s head cheesemaker Veronica Pedraza, Shabby Shoe was a happy accident. \u201cWe had some extra curd from making Afterglow and we decided to treat it differently,\u201d says Pedraza. \u201cI wasn\u2019t exactly sure what was going to happen.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Afterglow, a lactic-set cheese washed with local ale, is one of several award-winning, small-format goat\u2019s milk cheeses produced by Pedraza and her team at the Port Washington, Wisconsin, creamery. To make it, the curd is ladled into forms and drained for 48 hours before being unmolded and placed on racks in a drying room. For Shabby Shoe\u2014Pedraza\u2019s newest cheese\u2014the same curd is drained in bags (as it is for fresh ch\u00e8vre) and after 24 hours is salted and packed into molds. \u201cThat sort of treatment results in a much different texture\u2014Shabby Shoe is a lot lighter and fluffier than small-format cheeses, which are more dense and fudgy,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As turophiles might have guessed, the name is a play on the beloved French Chabichou du Poitou: a petite, cylindrical cheese with a wrinkly rind. Shabby Shoe boasts the same rind and a similar citrusy tang but is considerably larger\u2014each wheel weighs about two pounds. \u201cI gave it to a couple of people because I was excited by the way it turned out, and they were like, \u2018This is the cheese\u2019,\u201d Pedraza says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Afterglow, a lactic-set cheese washed with local ale, is one of several award-winning, small-format goat\u2019s milk cheeses produced by Pedraza and her team at the Port Washington, Wisconsin, creamery. To make it, the curd is ladled into forms and drained for 48 hours before being unmolded and placed on racks in a drying room. For Shabby Shoe\u2014Pedraza\u2019s newest cheese\u2014the same curd is drained in bags (as it is for fresh ch\u00e8vre) and after 24 hours is salted and packed into molds. \u201cThat sort of treatment results in a much different texture\u2014Shabby Shoe is a lot lighter and fluffier than small-format cheeses, which are more dense and fudgy,\u201d she says.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe most interesting thing to me is that essentially it\u2019s the same cheese, but you change two steps and it becomes something very different.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The size of Shabby Shoe is a plus on several fronts. \u201cWe make a lot of little cheeses, which are hand-salted, washed by hand, turned by hand, wrapped by hand,\u201d she says. \u201cI like Shabby Shoe because it tastes really good, but I enjoy making it because it eases the pain in the creamery a little bit. It\u2019s a smarter cheese to make.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The wrinkly cheese with the funny name has quickly become one of Blakesville Creamery\u2019s most popular offerings. \u201cShops seem to like having larger-format, soft-ripened cheese because there are not a lot of options for them,\u201d she says. \u201cI went from not ever considering making this cheese to making a lot of it.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThe response has been, \u2018This is the cheese you always should have made,\u2019 which has been really nice.\u201d<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

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