{"id":46757,"date":"2023-11-22T15:39:00","date_gmt":"2023-11-22T20:39:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/?p=46757"},"modified":"2024-09-18T10:33:10","modified_gmt":"2024-09-18T14:33:10","slug":"vanessa-kalbs-cheese-pairing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/cheese-pairings\/vanessa-kalbs-cheese-pairing\/","title":{"rendered":"Vanessa Tilaka Kalb\u2019s Perfect Cheese Pairings"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Like many others who end up behind a cheese counter<\/a>, Vanessa Tilaka Kalb was first behind a stove. With a degree in Culinary Arts from the Art Institute of California, Orange County, she worked at top restaurants in her native Los Angeles and then in San Francisco, where she met her husband, Iowan Thomas Kalb. When one of those restaurants offered her an educational grant to explore an element of the industry, Vanessa chose cheese, and subsequently studied at the Cheese School of San Francisco, which she credits for putting her on the path to becoming a monger. \u201cI thought, \u2018This is insane, how have I never tasted these cheeses?\u2019\u201d she says. The couple took a six-month sabbatical to travel the world; her goal when they returned was to work in cheese, his was to open a restaurant. In 2018, before they believed they were ready to take the leap, they learned that a location in quiet downtown Pasadena was available. \u201cWe thought it was too big, so we looked at a bunch of other places and nothing was quite right,\u201d Vanessa says. \u201cWe met with our architect, who said, \u2018This is just enough space to do what you want to do.\u2019 Now we\u2019re running out of space to do everything we want to do.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Agnes Restaurant and Cheesery, named for Thomas\u2019s grandmother, opened in June 2021 in a 1922 building that once housed horses for the Pasadena Fire Department. Featuring exposed brick walls, an open kitchen, and a spacious rear patio, it\u2019s a blend of California<\/a> cool and Midwestern comfort. While Vanessa oversees the street-facing shop and Thomas helms the restaurant behind it, they collaborate closely. “Because I have the culinary background, I can offer opinions on flavor and texture,” Vanessa says. Naturally, there is a cheese plate on the menu, but cheese is also an ingredient in several dishes, such as the cr\u00eame brul\u00e9e toast with whipped ch\u00e8vre and orange blossom honey offered at brunch, and the Reuben ravioli with Old Witch, a raw cow\u2019s milk cheese<\/a> from Switzerland, on the dinner menu. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

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That said, \u201cAlmost every table at Agnes orders the cheese plate,\u201d she says. \u201cThe monger chooses the cheese, writes the description and goes to the table to explain every cheese and connect with the guests.\u201d For culture<\/strong>, Vanessa put together a plate based on one of her cheese classes, Geography of Taste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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1. Mitica Wooly Wooly<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Origin: Jumilla (Murcia), Spain<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Pasteurized sheep <\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

+ BRINS Salted Concord Spread<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis is a play on a cream cheese and jelly sandwich, but the Brins jam is nothing like Welch\u2019s grape jelly\u2014it actually tastes like grape juice. I think this rich and decadent cheese converted a lot of people to sheep\u2019s milk cheese.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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2. Alemar Cheese Company Bent River<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Origin: Minneapolis, Minn.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Pasteurized cow<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

+ Driftless Provisions Saucisson Sec<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cBent River is an American classic\u2014a camembert made with organic, grass-fed milk that rivals anything coming from France. Pairing it with a zesty saucisson sec is equally classic.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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3. 5 Spoke Creamery Tumbleweed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Origin: Goshen, N.Y.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Raw cow<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

+ Jose Gourmet Smoked Small Mackerel in Olive Oil<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTumbleweed is a nice, approachable cheddar, and people in California are always surprised that New York makes cheese. The texture and smokiness of the fish compliments the nuttiness of the cheese.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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4. Agour Ossau Iraty<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Origin: France<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Raw sheep<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

+ Mama Lil\u2019s Pickled Hungarian \u2018Goathorn\u2019 Peppers in Oil<\/a><\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cI like to do peppers or hot sauce with nuttiness or creaminess. The Basque region, where Ossau Iraty is from is also known for Espelette peppers, which would be an expected pairing\u2014I\u2019m giving it a twist.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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5. Champignon Cambozola Black Label<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Origin: Lauben, Germany<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Milk: Pasteurized cow<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

+ John Kelly Chocolate Dark Chocolate<\/a> with French Grey Sea Salt<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cThis pairing was inspired by a chocolate cake with blue cheese ganache that we made for a tasting menu. John Kelly Chocolates are made by a couple in Hollywood\u2014I almost cried when I tried the one with the French grey sea salt\u2014and I thought a pairing with this fudgy blue would be perfect and balanced.\u201d\u00a0<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Related:<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n