{"id":50091,"date":"2025-12-01T17:09:46","date_gmt":"2025-12-01T22:09:46","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/?p=50091"},"modified":"2025-12-01T17:09:47","modified_gmt":"2025-12-01T22:09:47","slug":"inside-andy-hatchs-radical-farmstead-approach-at-uplands-cheese","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/culturecheesemag.com\/stories\/voicings\/inside-andy-hatchs-radical-farmstead-approach-at-uplands-cheese\/","title":{"rendered":"Inside Andy Hatch\u2019s Radical Farmstead Approach at Uplands Cheese"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Andy Hatch is a legend in the American artisan cheese world. As head cheesemaker and co-owner of Uplands Cheese<\/a> in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, he\u2019s responsible for two of the most celebrated cheeses in the country: Pleasant Ridge Reserve<\/a> and Rush Creek Reserve<\/a>. A passionate steward of place, process, and flavor, Hatch has built a farmstead model that\u2019s both traditional and quietly radical\u2014one where the land, animals, people, and product are all in symbiotic balance. We spoke with him about falling in love with cheesemaking on a Norwegian fjord, the unique spirit of Wisconsin terroir, and why the future of artisan cheese is more precarious\u2014and more hopeful\u2014than ever.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

culture (CM): How did you get your start in cheesemaking?<\/strong>
Andy Hatch (AH):<\/strong> I couldn\u2019t figure out how I was going to make a career in farming work, so I thought maybe I\u2019d go back to school for ag research. I was applying to grad school and working for a corn breeder at the time. He had married into a Norwegian cheesemaking family, and when his elderly father-in-law passed away, they sent me\u2014this 22-year-old kid\u2014off to Norway to help his mother-in-law, this little woman named Moony who lived on a farm on the side of a fjord. No car, no phone, no Google Meet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I\u2019d grown up in Wisconsin and worked on dairy farms, but I hadn\u2019t made cheese until I went to Norway. I made goat cheese with Moony, and right away it clicked. It made sense to me. It\u2019s kind of like lab work\u2014structured, scientific\u2014but with this tangible, deeply satisfying product at the end of the day. It felt good. I could see how, economically, cheesemaking could be a way into dairy farming. You\u2019re not going to get rich, but if you can add value to milk, you can hopefully afford to farm.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CM: What made southern Wisconsin the right place to build Uplands Cheese?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> I spent several years as a cheesemaking apprentice in different parts of Europe\u2014Italy, France, England, Norway\u2014and I gained so much appreciation for how seriously they take tradition. There\u2019s this huge infrastructure built around it: universities, veterinarians, equipment suppliers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In Wisconsin, our tradition isn\u2019t as deep\u2014it\u2019s maybe 150 years\u2014but there is a legacy, and more importantly, there\u2019s this incredible density of infrastructure and a progressive spirit. We\u2019re not as constrained by PDO rules. In Europe, I couldn\u2019t have just decided to make a cheese like Pleasant Ridge Reserve out of nowhere. I\u2019d be told to make Gruy\u00e8re and follow exact specs\u2014how many wheels, what size, what shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here, we have the freedom to combine tradition with innovation. That, plus the climate, soil, and pastureland\u2014there\u2019s really no better place in the world to milk cows and make cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CM: You\u2019re a true farmstead operation\u2014milking, making, aging, and selling all on site. Why did you choose to do it all in house?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> Control. Quality control, ultimately. When you manage every part of the process\u2014from cow breeding and pasture management to how the cheese is made and sold\u2014you can ensure everything is working toward the same goal. That\u2019s hard to do when you\u2019re passing milk or cheese between entities.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s not easy. It\u2019s a complex operation, and it creates limitations for scale. But it also creates huge opportunities for quality. And I think it gives meaning to the work. Dairy farming and cheesemaking are physically demanding and repetitive\u2014there\u2019s real risk of burnout. But when our farmers see their milk become something people appreciate, and when our cheesemakers feel the rhythm of the seasons in their work, that creates purpose. The cheese isn\u2019t disappearing into a factory system\u2014it\u2019s staying with us. That matters.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

CM: Let\u2019s talk about that seasonality. Pleasant Ridge is only made during grazing months, and Rush Creek only made in the fall. Why?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> Pleasant Ridge is made while the cows are on pasture\u2014spring, summer, and early fall. The flavor of grass-fed milk is complex, but it takes time to develop in cheese. That\u2019s why we age Pleasant Ridge for many months; it\u2019s like letting a red wine age.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Rush Creek is made at the end of the grazing season, when the cows are transitioning to a winter hay diet. The milk is heavier, fattier, and a little less complex. That\u2019s perfect for a rich, soft, unctuous cheese.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We didn\u2019t invent this approach\u2014it comes from Alpine cheesemaking traditions. In the summer, you make firm cheeses to age. In the winter, when the cows come down from the mountain and eat hay, you make soft cheeses. We\u2019re just following that seasonal logic with the tools and milk we have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CM: You\u2019ve talked before about balancing innovation and tradition. How does that play out in your work?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> Even in Europe, where tradition dictates a lot, cheesemakers are always refining things\u2014cow genetics, soil health, techniques. In the US, we have even more freedom. We can change the size or shape of a cheese. We can experiment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Take Rush Creek. When I learned to make Mont d\u2019Or in the Jura [region], it was sold young\u2014maybe 30 days old. But here in the US, because it\u2019s raw milk, we legally have to age it at least 60 days. Early on, I saw that as a handicap. That extra aging made it risky. It could over-ripen or develop problems.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But over time, we learned to coax something new out of it. The flavors became more meaty, savory, umami-rich\u2014totally different from the delicate, milky Mont d\u2019Or I\u2019d known. So, what started as a constraint actually led us somewhere more interesting.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"\"<\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

CM: Is it possible to grow a business like yours? Or is farmstead cheesemaking inherently limited in scale?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> We\u2019re debt-financed. We don\u2019t have investors or family money, so we\u2019ve had to grow slowly. And farmstead growth is slow by nature. If we want to make more Pleasant Ridge, we need more heifer calves, which means waiting for them to grow, calve, and start producing milk\u2014and then the cheese has to age a year. You\u2019re looking at a three-year timeline.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We\u2019ve grown 4 to 6 percent a year. A few more cows. A little more cheese. But pasture-based dairy has its limits. Our cows can only graze so much land. It\u2019s like a vineyard that yields a fixed number of grapes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We were lucky: two neighboring farms sold us land on incredibly generous terms\u2014land contracts, interest-only\u2014because they believed in what we were doing. That\u2019s given us the ability to expand. But now, our facilities need upgrading to match, and that\u2019s a serious investment. Land, animals, aging space\u2014it\u2019s capital-intensive, and it\u2019s hard to finance that kind of growth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CM: How does sustainability fit into your model\u2014ecologically, economically, and socially?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> Pasture-based dairy is a beautiful closed loop. You need enough acres to feed your cows, and the cows fertilize those acres in return. You build soil. You protect water. You support biodiversity. This is how the Great Plains were formed\u2014animals grazing perennial grasses.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It\u2019s better for the cows, too. And that grass-fed milk has extraordinary flavor. Flavor translates to value. That\u2019s the only way a farm like ours survives\u2014by creating something that\u2019s worth more than the sum of its parts.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

We spend about $1 million a year in our community. That\u2019s feed from neighbors, labor, vet care, electricians, plumbers. It\u2019s not nothing for a town of a few thousand. Cows and cheese have long been a vehicle for wealth distribution in Wisconsin\u201490 percent of our cheese leaves the state, but the money comes back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

CM: You\u2019re one of the people who helped build the US artisan cheese movement. What\u2019s your take on where it stands today?<\/strong>
AH:<\/strong> There\u2019s real reason for optimism. More people are eating better cheese than ever. And once you\u2019ve tasted the good stuff, you don\u2019t go back.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But there are challenges. Consolidation across the supply chain. Rising land and labor costs. It\u2019s harder than ever to start a small cheese business, especially a farmstead one. That\u2019s a problem\u2014not just for our industry but for farming more broadly. Cheesemaking is a proven way to save family farms.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So, what do we do? Some forces are out of our control. But we can invest in people. We host five or six apprentices every year\u2014cheesemongers, farm kids, people figuring it out. That\u2019s how I learned, and it\u2019s still the best way. We pass it on.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Andy Hatch is a legend in the American artisan cheese world. As head cheesemaker and co-owner of Uplands Cheese in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, he\u2019s responsible for two of the most celebrated cheeses in the country: Pleasant Ridge Reserve and Rush Creek Reserve. A passionate steward of place, process, and flavor, Hatch has built a farmstead model […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":122,"featured_media":50093,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"om_disable_all_campaigns":false,"wprm-recipe-roundup-name":"","wprm-recipe-roundup-description":"","cybocfi_hide_featured_image":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[14],"tags":[],"coauthors":[34644],"class_list":["post-50091","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-voicings"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nInside Andy Hatch\u2019s Radical Farmstead Approach at Uplands Cheese | culture: the word on cheese<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Andy Hatch is a legend in the American artisan cheese world. 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